Hacker Defense

 People are scammed and hacked every day.   That is a troubling fact, but worse yet is the tactics that they use are constantly changing, from simple phishing attacks to complex stolen-info scams, there are more and more ways to get ripped off.

 I ran across a  post on reddit that had some good advice, and I will share that here.

 

1. **Disconnect Devices**: Turn off Wi-Fi on all devices to stop the hacker’s access.

2. **Enable 2FA**: Use two-factor authentication (2FA) on all accounts.

3. **Contact Email Provider**: Report the hack and regain control of the email account.

4. **Check for Recovery Options**: Use the “Forgot Password” link to reset passwords securely.

5. **Scan Devices**: Run antivirus software to remove malware.

6. **Notify Banks/Creditors**: Protect financial accounts.

7. **Don’t Pay the Hacker**: Ignore ransom demands.

 

I also learned about this site with a specific help site for seniors, also worth a look.

 

https://www.cisa.gov/resources-tools/resources/cisa-cybersecurity-awareness-program-older-american-resources.

 

I would add to that to also set up recovery accounts for MS, email, etc., whenever possible since it will aid in recovering a compromised account much faster.  Make sure that you also update the phone numbers/recovery email addresses  anytime that the information changes.

 

 

 

We need to change our thinking when strangers contact us!

I have a customer/friend.  I will call her Jean.  She contacted me to help her with her PayPal account recently.   When I got there, she described the following scenario.

She has a friend in Norway that is trying to pay her back for a loan (via PayPal).  She tried to receive a payment from the friend, but it was blocked.  She was supposed to unblock her account via instructions provided by her "friend"

 PayPal limits transactions on personal accounts, and if you try to pay or receive an amount greater then their limit you have to upgrade your account first.

 This was for Thousands of dollars, so I naturally assumed that this was a friend/relative, or someone she had known for years.  She said no, this was someone that she met online.  They chatted for some time, and they were both believers. It wasn't until he mentioned (in an indirect way) that he was in a financial hardship that they ever discussed money or financial matters.

Jean is a single 50-60 year old woman, and I don't know anything of her personal life but it seemed very plain to me that this person was taking her for a ride.  I had to tell Jean that I think she was scammed, and I think that the "instructions" may have had her unlock her account so that her "friend" could steal more from her.  While there are controls to help prevent this type of theft, they clearly didn't work in this case.  The scammers are constantly evolving their tactics to work around new policies to protect their users.

 People are taken advantage of every day using some very slick tricks and some very organized behaviors to outright rob, steal identities, empty bank accounts, open lines of credit, and any other conceivable theft against people who are either confused by slick, fast-talking sharks, or just confused in general.

Our default stance when we deal with strangers should be suspicion and defense.  Not giving out information on ourselves that might allow them to access our accounts.  Legitimate businesses won't be put out when we exercise caution.  They understand the world we live in.

It's also a great idea to have someone you can call on when you want a second opinion about things that "just don't feel right"  Feel free to call on me if you want a 2nd opinion.

What does international shipping look like in the world of COVID?

 For the last few years, I have utilized vendors from overseas (China mainly) because most times parts are available for considerably less than domestic sources.  Sure, shipping times are quite a bit longer (in my experience 2-3 weeks is normal) but if you're not in a rush, or you're buying stuff you know will use in the future but not in a huge hurry to get them, it can be a significant cost savings.

 It's becoming more common to receive shipping from overseas; sites like Wish.com, Newegg.com, and Amazon all have some available resources that ship directly from China. It's worth the extra few minutes to verify where your purchases are coming from.  Many times the vendor is a third party (meaning they have a selling agreement with the host, and are not formally part of the core company).  In this case you might have to deal directly with the vendor in case of trouble.

In the wake of COVID-19, I'm beginning to wonder if my strategy is still a solid one.  I'll give you an example.  I bought a small lot of parts on Feb. 14 and began the waiting process...this was when COVID was still not fully engaged here in the Midwest.  After everything that happened in March/April I was hesitant to engage the vendor on my order status, but by May I had waited like 10 weeks for my item. I contacted the seller, and to my surprise they were unaware that I was still waiting to receive my items.   They offered to re-ship, and reassured me that their logistics issues were resolved and should be back to normal.

Here I am today and as of Aug 14, I have still not received the package (or the replacement package for that matter) and it's been 6 months to the day!  When I contacted the customer service (eBay in this case), they pretty much told me that their coverage through their guarantee is only valid for 30 days after the sale, so I'm pretty much out of luck unless the seller decides to step up.  The rep also suggested that I should contact my bank and file a claim with them.

What the rep obviously didn't know is that credit card/debit card protections only apply for 90 and 30 days, respectively.  If you file a claim after that period is up it will be declined automatically.  Always be safe when buying from any vendor, but for now I have to say I'm going to be avoiding online purchases from overseas until some of these issues have been cleared up.

 

Amazon shoppers beware

I just saw a new phishing scam (this time targeting Amazon customers) a couple days ago,  It involved scammers sending out a massive number of emails, claiming to have locked the user's Amazon account due to suspicious activity. It included a link so that users could remove the "lock" directly.

I got a similar contact, this one (supposedly) from our electric utility and came via phone contact. I'm sure they wanted personal or bank/credit card to settle a supposed unpaid bill.

Here is how that works.  They target thousands, even tens of thousands of users.  Sure not all of them will have an amazon account, but that is why they cast a very large net.
If you were to click the link in the message, it will say it's taking you to the Amazon secure log-in screen, but in reality you get dropped off at a website (that belongs to the scammers) that resembles Amazon.  If you try and log in with a user name and password, they will capture your user name/password, and your identity may be stolen; fraudulent purchases or other criminal activity are sure to follow.

What should you do to deal with Phishing attempts?
1) When you see a message, receive a phone call, etc., delete that message (or hang up the phone) and using your browser (NOT a link) log into your account and check the status of your account that way.
If there was an issue you would be the site would advise you when you log in. If you have the customer service number for the site you can also call in to them. 

2) Don't follow links in email messages, especially when they ask for personal information.

3) While you can report this to the site, there are literally dozens of new attacks every day and new schemes to go along with them.  Protect yourself, don't be gullible, and keep your identity and your money safe!

4) Avoid sharing links to web sites as much as possible.  Links are great but they don't always take you where you think you're going.

A cautionary tale with a happy ending...

Recently I had what could only be described as a catastrophic failure where Windows is concerned.  I was going about my normal routine, and I noticed that there was an update available for my backup software.  I was trying to install it when I was getting a strange error from the software that it was unable to complete the task.

Since I always start with the easy stuff first, I decided to reboot the computer....

Normally you would expect to see this message when you remove a hard drive, or if a power cable has come unplugged.  Since I had done none of these things,  I figured I definitely had more than a minor issue.

What I checked:

• Software changes: none were made, no windows updates recently, etc.
• Hardware: date/power cables are connected, both to the hard drives, and on the mainboard (or to the power supply, in the case of power cables. Note: if you have a modular power supply, also check that the power cables are connected at the power supply as well)
• Made sure that my primary & secondary drives appear in the BIOS.  On Dell PC's you hit the F2 button during startup to enter the BIOS.  (My secondary/data drive was there, but my primary/Operating System (OS) drive was not.

So it seemed pretty clear to me that my primary boot/OS drive was having issues.
Luckily for me, I have a backup solution in place, and I am reasonably faithful in keeping it.  <More about that later>

Clone to the rescue

I grabbed my most recent clone of my OS drive, removed the <old> OS drive, and exchanged the two.  I then reconnected everything else, rebooted the system, and Voila!  Windows came right up!  Because it was a clone, windows didn't even know the difference; it came right up to the point that the clone was created.

Now, that took care of most of my issues; my recent backup was only about 10 days old.  Any other important files would be handled under my Dropbox (cloud backup).

My backup procedure

Since I have 2 drives in my system, (one for programs, Windows, etc., and one for data: documents, downloads, photos, etc.).  I needed a way to back up both drives, and I wanted a simple way to schedule and manage my backups.

I have been using software called Backupper from AOMIE for a few years now.  I was using Clonezilla before that (for just making clones), but Backupper is more simple layout, easier to use, and I can run backups, Clone drives, and some other taks right from a single program (since it is run right from Windows).

<<By comparison, Clonezilla is run off a CD or USB and it is run through a DOS-type interface (not Windows).  As its name suggests, it only does clones, no backups.>>

I have a Dropbox set up for small important files (like word, excel, and pdf files.)  I've been using my free account for years, and never felt the need to upgrade.  I don't keep larger files, pictures, etc. in my dropbox, so I rarely get close to running out of storage.

I do a monthly backup of my data drive, and at least bi-monthly clone of the OS drive.  I keep a 2nd clone drive around (so I actually have 2 hard drive backups in case one were to fail.

I replace my main OS drive on a 3 year rotation.  At that time frame, the drive is out of warranty, and (at least if it contains valuable information) then it's time for a replacement.

My data drive gets replaced on a 5 year rotation, unless I start to notice performance issues with the device.  Then it gets replaced immediately.  I am a big fan of the WD black line of hard drives; their 5 year warranty, combined with years a reliable service, make it easy for me to recommend them.

It's not really a backup unless you know it works

I have an identical system to my desktop that I can drop my clone into for testing purposes.  It's also really handy to have a spare machine in case you experience a hardware (mainboard, CPU, etc.) failure.

How it turned out 

In the end, the OS drive was still under warranty.  I sent a quick email off to Kingston (my OS drive was a Kingston V300 SSD drive), and they validated the warranty and replaced the drive with a new one.

Everything else has been working fine, and I have not really had any further issues.

Backup Basics...

One of the most troubling types of computer problems involves the loss of data

 Personal files, photos, important documents, music, videos, and the like are all things that can be disturbing to lose.  And yet many people have no plans to protect these important, irreplaceable files from loss.  But there are plenty of things that can go wrong that affect these files.
 

Hard drive failures: Mechanical hard drives are an amazingly complex piece of machinery, capable of storing large amounts of data in a small physical space, and at a relatively low cost.  Not surprisingly, the mechanics inside a mechanical hard drive can fail, plus they are sensitive to shock (being dropped, bumped, etc.), so they are not invulnerable.
 

Flash memory failure: SD cards, USB drives and internal memory for tablets and phones use a non-volatile memory (meaning that the memory does not require electrical energy to store data).  This type of memory is pretty reliable, (not shock-sensitive) but still failures can happen, and they can fail without warning.
 

Virus or Ransomware: This type of threat can corrupt files, or encrypt them to prevent access to the files at all.  Payment can be demanded to release the files, with an implied threat to delete the files if payment is not made.

What do all of these have in common?  If you have a backup which contains your backup files, then you will be able to recover your system and your files.

Windows 7 and above include a backup utility for creating and maintaining backup copies of your files and can also backup your operating system (OS) in case of a virus or hardware failure.  You can access it by typing backup in your search bar.  Using it, you can select which files you want to back up (often called the source data) , where you want to store them (the target) and when you want to perform the backup (and if it is to repeat).  If you run it immediately, it will take minutes or hours depending on how many files, the relative speed of the computer, and the type of backup storage.
There are also many programs that will perform backups for you; naturally, they feature some additional options not found in the Windows backup utility.  I am currently using one called AOMEI Backupper, which has can do partition resizing, disk cloning and disk imaging as well.
I have been using disk cloning software* for several years.  It has proven as easy way to prevent redundant activities when prepping and repairing computer systems.  I really appreciate the ease with which this type of software can give a layer of protection to a user.  In fact, I recently did a full backup of my primary system last week, a process that took (in its entirety) about 4 hours.  This was a backup of over 300GB of data files, pictures, music etc., and I fully verified that the backup will boot into windows. Disk imaging software** takes a slightly different approach, where the target of the imaging is a larger storage device that can hold many images.  Usually a server (a network computer with vast amounts of storage) will be utilized in this environment, and usually in an enterprise operation.
* Disk cloning software-a utility program which makes an exact copy of the drive, essentially duplicating the source drive sector by sector.
**Disk imaging software- a utility program that can store an image, or a full copy of a disk or partition, for later use during a recovery operation.

My take on ransomware...Causes, prevention, & dealing with these threats.

There has been a pretty steep uptick in ransom-ware activity the last few months, and the seriousness of this particular type of threat has grown to near epidemic proportions.

 Any software which can take administrative control of a computing device, prevents removal/detection/deletion, and hold control of it until a monetary amount is paid (the ransom), is considered ransomware.
Probably most disturbing is the amount of money that ransom-ware is generating to the criminal element.  The FBI estimates over $200 million has been spent already in 2016 to release personal, business, and even file servers that have been compromised.
The other frightening aspect of all this is that the "ransom" rates are also on the rise.  Where ransoms from a few years ago might have been merely a couple hundred dollars, I have now heard of ransoms going into the thousands of dollars.  Yikes!

So what can someone do (to prevent and/or recover) from a ransomware attack? 

The fast answer (the best one in my opinion) is prevention.  If you have been around computers for awhile, you have probably heard,

• "Don't try to get stuff (that costs money) for free", 
• "Don't open email with attachments from people you don't know",
• "Don't download unknown programs", 
• "Don't click on links in web pages, or email unless you know where the link is taking you".

These are good suggestions, but there are some other things that can also be done:

1. Back up files, especially personal files, pictures, and any financial/business software.  A full backup should also be run, and the backup media should ideally NOT be regularly connected to the computer (any connected device could be compromised in the event of a ransomware attack)  Removable storage like DVD's, external hard drives, and USB drives, are good examples.

2. Keep your antivirus current.  And have a second line of defense.  Malwarebytes has a free scanner, but the paid version has an active component that monitors and will block malicious content.  While nothing can truly block against every threat, a good solution will have consistent updates to its detection engine, and make those updates available in a timely manner.

3. Know how Microsoft operates.  They will never call you to offer assistance.  If you get a call like this you can rest assured that it is some type of scam attempt.

 Q: "OK, these are good suggestions, but I already have a popup telling me that I need to pay.  What do I do?"

A: some of these threats can be removed.  So the first thing to do is NOT panic.  Next, terminating the process in hand is important.  Shutting down the PC is a good first step.  If you are locked out when it restarts, you could try to start the PC in safe mode.  (When the PC is first booting, you can bring up your startup options by tapping the F8 key.  Select safe mode, and see if your computer can start.

If it can start in safe mode, download and run Malwarebytes.  It may be able to root out and remove the problem.  If it comes back clean, your system may not have been infected by the threat (this is where quickly shutting the PC down can help).  If it does find any threats it may ask to restart your system after it removed them.  I would recommend a follow up scan after that to ensure nothing is left behind.
Also run a scan with whatever your other virus/malware scanner is.  If you don't have one, Windows defender (Win 8,10) or Microsoft Security Essentials. (Win 7) are good basic protection.

Before you Upgrade your current PC to Windows 10

Microsoft has made a giant push forward for all of its Windows 7, 8, and 8.1 owners.  A free upgrade to the new Windows 10 Operating System (OS) can seem pretty attractive.  Many users I know have upgraded to Windows 10, and most have been pretty happy with it.
However, There are a few considerations to make before taking the upgrade plunge.   I hope to shed a little light on the subject today.

hardware & software environment

1. Is your computer capable of running Windows 10?  Most are since the OS has similar requirements to previous versions of Windows
2. Is your hardware supported?  I am speaking here about the peripherals on your computer (like your video adapter, sound card, network card, etc.)  In many cases there are updated drivers (software that helps your hardware to the OS), many times from the manufacturer (Dell, etc.)
3. Are your programs supported?  If you use programs like MS Word, or a specific word processor, it would be good going in to know if they are compatible with Windows 10.  If not you have to choose to leave it behind or try to find a replacement or upgrade for the program.  This one can be especially tricky, since often times people don't find out about compatibility problems until they have already upgraded.
4. What about peripherals?  Webcams, printers, Scanners, and such all need to be able to communicate with your new hardware.  If not, your usefulness of that hardware will be limited or restricted altogether.

Further muddying the water

This last one can be further complicated by "basic" drivers or Windows "plug & play" drivers.  They may allow the peripheral to work, but it might lack the advanced features and options that you had with the older Operating System.

In a small percentage of cases, the installation of a windows upgrade has caused irreconcilable damage to the OS, a hardware failure, or both, which can result in data loss, time lost, and the need for hardware warranty support (assuming the computer is still under warranty, {you did pay for the extended warranty, didn't you?}.  If you still have warranty support, then you would be covered for such an event.  Otherwise an expensive repair might be in your future.

What should I do?

Assuming you have some concerns,or if the above questions raised some concerns, you still have options.

1. You can choose not to upgrade the PC for now.  The free upgrade offer is valid until this coming June, so you can delay until then.
2. You really don't have to upgrade at all.  If you computer is built on older tech (more than 5 years old) and you are happy with its performance, you could just continue to use it as-is.  Microsoft still has update support slated until 2020 (4 more years).
3. If you do decide to upgrade, I would first make a backup of important data before beginning.  That way in a worst-case scenario you wouldn't risk losing your data

final thoughts

I hope this has helped to make decisions regarding upgrade paths.  Making the decision is always easier after having a more complete view of risks and benefits.  As always, you can contact me with specific questions, etc.

Windows 8...Hate!, Hate*(&(())!!, Hate?


Wow, the reviewers and the public seem to be in agreement on this one...
Not many people like Windows 8 (at all) and it has almost caught up with Windows Vista.  See the diagram above for the statistics, courtesy of Cnet:

To see the full article, visit:
Windows 8 vies with Vista, Windows 7 Gains

So in much the same way as Windows XP users (still going strong @ 38%) opted to stay away from Vista, Windows 7 users (44%) are avoiding Windows 8.

So what are some of the problems with Windows 8, you may ask?

Most significantly, MS has done away completely with the start button; this one fact has caused more headaches and frustration than I care to admit.  Sure you can still get to the files, but to someone (like me) who appreciated it, it seems that MS shot itself in the foot on this one, then moved up to the leg and torso for good measure.

Wireless settings?  don't look on the desktop of the new metro interface; instead, it's hidden away in the settings screen.  It took me 5 minutes and googling it to get the answer.  For a person very familiar with windows like myself, it was akin to being dropped off at kindergarten, where all the kids were snot-nosed and crying, and no one had a tissue.

I can only imagine what less capable users' experiences are or have been since it came out.  I would like to see statistics of people who returned a windows 8 PC for a refund, or even switched to Apple.  According to this data, they are up to almost 6.5% for all three flavors of OS 10.

By the way, there is relief (at least from the start button plague).  An app called Start8, which costs $5 restores this functionality.
Visit to check out Start8:

Other developer's have also jumped in to do MS's job for them, some of them are free and some are not.  If you are waiting for MS to release an official version, you may we waiting a long time.  MS is saying the start button is dead, and there is no update planned that includes a revival of it.

To that I say: Boo! :(

PS: XP Users, MS will be discontinuing support for Windows XP at some point, probably in the next year.  If you're one of them, consider a Windows 7 PC as a seriously better alternative than 8.

What Does Windows 8 mean to Windows XP users?

In Missouri where we live, we have plenty of Windows 7 users, consisting of mostly professionals, businesses, schools, and the like.
We also still have a considerable population of Windows XP users, many of whom are grandma/grandpas, or simply facebook & email users who haven't taken the Windows 7 leap yet.
According to this web page, there are still nearly half of all users who still run XP on their computer.

http://blog.rocketlawyer.com/microsoft-to-discontinue-support-for-windows-xp-office-2003-time-to-upgrade-your-office-computer-system-94497

Enter Windows 8, which is going to  further muddy the water by adding another choice to potential computer buyers.  

Microsoft has been saying for a while now that support (in the form of product updates, security updates, etc.) will stay until 2014 (I haven't heard an official date yet).  Does this mean that 47% of the population will need to upgrade to a new PC in the next 12-24 months?

Not necessarily, I say. However, there are a few things to consider before making your decision:

• Legacy software: Do you have software that simply won't work in Windows Vista or Win 7?  Many users do, and although Windows 7 has an emulation mode called "XP mode" I have not had complete success using it with incompatible software.

• Out of date software: For example:  Do you have QucikBooks 2007 version (or prior)?  Sorry, You need at least the 2008 version of QB to run Win Vista or 7.  You may need to figure that into your budget since QB Pro costs around $179 per license.

• Security: Do you or a family member spend a lot of time online on Facebook, MySpace, etc.?  Newer Operating Systems like Vista & 7 are more secure, less prone to infection, and more resilient to attacks.

• Browser: Microsoft decided not to upgrade Internet Explorer (IE) past version 8.  I have seen plenty of users still plodding along with version 6 or 7 as well, which are even less secure.  If you insist on using IE, you may want to upgrade; otherwise consider an alternative browser like Firefox or Google Chrome.

• Hardware capable: Some users bought Windows XP even after Vista came out, meaning their CPU, RAM, hard drive may only be a few years old, and could easily be capable of Running Vista or 7 well (or even better with a minor upgrade).  

• You can use the Windows 7 upgrade adviser (a free program from MS that will look at your PC, hardware, and software, and give recommendations about upgrade options, etc.)  In a general sense, I would recommend a dual-core processor of at least 2.0 GHz, 2 GB of ram, and 80 GB hard drive as the minimum.  While you can get by with less, it will be frustratingly slow to use.

• Cost: Windows 7 Runs about $120, perhaps a little less if it's on sale, or if you buy an upgrade version.  If you are a college student, check out money saving offers from MS!

So, should you do it?  These ideas should get you thinking.  If you are leaning towards a new PC, then now is a pretty good time.  School time, Christmas is coming, etc., and stores really would love to sell you one...

If not, here are a few suggestions:

1. Back up your data regularly.  Your hard drive is at least 3 years old, right? Average failure rates for desktop hard drives are about 5 years.  For laptops it's even less than that (they are smaller, more fragile, and take more abuse due to their portability).
2. Keep your installation software handy.  Your Windows OS disc, drivers, programs, and such are probably all available right now online (or you may have them stored).  Once support closes for Windows XP, those things will probably disappear, and will be much harder to find.  The reason for this: Once MS support ends, you will find other vendors like HP, Dell, etc. will also discontinue support, which includes removing "legacy" driver and software downloads.
3. Use a different browser.  Alternative browsers like Firefox or Google Chrome of much more up-to-date, and avoid some of the security risks.
4. Keep checking for updates.  As long as there are updates, keep applying them.  Also, updates for Java, Adobe Reader, and Adobe Flash are safe, and most of them address security concerns.

If you have one of the legacy/outdated software problems, (and have the financial capability) there is another option as well.  Buy a new PC, and move your documents, etc. to the new computer, while keeping your legacy or outdated software running on your XP box.  You still want to follow the above advice (backing up, updates, etc.) but this could save you an otherwise painful transition and learning curve, and you would get the advanced security of a new version of Windows!

Good luck, and as always, feel free to email me with any questions!

Change screen resolution Windows XP, Vista, and Win 7

Change screen resolution

Changing resolution involves making the pixels closer together (higher res) or further apart (lower res).  Since you can’t physically make the screen larger (without replacing the whole screen), the trade of is that lower resolutions use more screen space, which displays less of the screen at a time (meaning you may need to scroll the screen over to see the other side).

Change screen resolution Windows XP: go to control panel / display and click settings.  Use the slider to the right to increase resolution, or to the left to decrease resolution.

Change screen resolution Windows Vista & Win 7: Click control panel / display and select adjust resolution.   Then you can slide the bar up or down to change resolution. 

You can also change the size of icons, etc. without changing screen resolution from the display panel.  I would suggest trying out the different magnification settings before changing screen resolution.   It can make things larger without affecting web pages, etc. as much.

Cleanliness is next to ....

I have worked on a few desktop system recently that had one major thing in common.

  They were filthy!
The above part is the base of a heatsink-fan combination, which helps to pull heat from a component (in this case the processor) and keep it from overheating.  (imagine a small fan mounted on top of this part to help move air).  All this dust is kind of like a layer of insulation, and keeps air (and heat) from moving freely.
Cases can also suffer from dust infiltration. A standard PC tower may have as many as 4-5 fans, but it may only have 1-2 intake and exhaust ports to move air through the tower. (Laptops are typically worse, they may only have one main air path, which is intended to cool the entire unit.  A block along this path will dramatically reduce any cooling effort, and temperatures will rise..

Falcon Northwest is well-known for making excellent computers, mostly in the high-end gaming niche, and they demand top quality designs for their PC's because they are frequently run at higher than stock speeds (over-clocked)
So, how do you keep it clean?

When is it time to upgrade?

This is a question I am often asked, and it is most often during the months preceding Christmas.  The answer is not as complex as you might think, and requires only a few questions to be answered.

1. How do you use your computer?
2. Are you online with it?
3. Is there important information on it?
4. Are you satisfied with its performance?
5. Are there things you would like to do (but can't?)

The first question is pretty self-explanatory, but what you use it for should be of worth to you (what value it provides to you as a consumer)
The second question is important simply because older Operating Systems (OS) like Windows 2000, Me, or even 98 are no longer secure online.  Note: Even if you are satisfied with your computer's performance, you should consider an upgrade if you are using anything older that Win XP.  This product is still supported by MicroSoft (MS), (meaning that security updates, etc. are still available), and so it's still safe to use.
The third question is important because the main storage of a computer, the hard drive, is a mechanical part.  It is subject to failure, and may or may not give warning signs (like a scratching or clicking sounds, repeated startup failures) before it goes out.  A catastrophic failure will make data recovery difficult (read: expensive) if not impossible.
The fourth is important because newer machines vs. ones with Vista and XP installed are more capable, have faster processors, more memory, as well as having a faster OS to run.
The last is a good question because many times people don't consider what they want to do when they buy a computer, and some of these are difficult to change once you take it home.
 
If it is time to upgrade, apply this last question to your new purchase as well.  Want to play WoW? (World of Warcraft)  Spend a few bucks more and get a gaming-level graphics card.  Are you interested in digital photography? Get a nice big hard drive (and an external one for backing up photos).  Do you want to make and distribute home movies and such?  Make sure you have plenty of RAM (memory), a DVD burner, and a program for recording home movies.

These are things to think about, but taking the time to access your needs will lead to a happier computing experience, and may prevent a purchase that you really don't need.
Happy Holidays!

How well does MagicJack actually work?

I am in the process of helping a friend/customer of mine with his new MagicJack (MJ).  He decided to take the leap and jettison his phone company in favor of MagicJack.  Just how well does it work?  We shall see.

I should mention that MJ is an over-the internet phone service which allows callers to make local & long distance calls (international plans are available for extra per-minute charges) without needing a phone connection.  Note that it connects to USB slot on your Personal Computer (PC), which means the computer must be powered on for this to work.
NOTE: Another assumption is a HI_SPEED internet connection.  The thought of using a dial-up modem for this is laughable and ridiculous.  Email me if you don't get the joke.

This device connects via a USB connection and (hidden in this view) has a standard phone connection on the rear of the unit.  Software is installed once the device is installed and naturally it prompts you to create an account with which to make calls.  The unit offers a 30-day guarantee w/ a full refund if you aren't satisfied.

The Personal Computer (PC) I used to set this up was a last-gen Windows XP, with a 2.8 GHz Pentium 4 Central Processing Unit (CPU), 1 GB of ram, and the internet connection was a 1 Mbps connection via a microwave wireless receiver.

Call quality was very good.  My previous experience using A Voice Over Internet Protocol (VOIP) service was extremely poor, but the quality was good, certainly no worse than a cell phone, and nearly indistinguishable from an ordinary phone call.

Performance left something to be desired.  Perhaps it was the internet connection, or the relatively slow PC, but it took on average about 1 min. 15 seconds to load the MJ application and to log in when the computer started up.  Once it was loaded it didn't feel like it slowed the computer down at all, though.

Reliability was a little disappointing. We have experienced a few times when the calls went directly to voicemail, and not to MJ.  This was reported to tech support, and we are testing tech support's fix for this.  Update as of Sept 7: So far it's improved but still not perfect.  Since there was a storm system that took out the microwave tower recently, that could be a partial reason for outages (after the storm).  Since any internet outages will affect your service (your ability to make and receive calls), a factor worth consideration is "how reliable is your internet connection?" For this case MJ was less reliable than a regular phone line.

Expandability was very good, as I was able to plug several phones in (via an inexpensive splitter), plus a fax machine which worked just fine at default settings, no adjustments required.

Cost was very reasonable, @ $39.99 for the first year, approx $20.00 per year after that (which breaks down to about $3.33 per month)  NOTE: Bear in mind that since the PC has to stay on, you will use more electricity than with Vonage, etc. which does not require a PC to be on.

Features: caller ID, voicemail, messages sent via voicemail, (and messages available anywhere).  Portable (take MJ with you on vacation, make free calls from your hotel room, etc.)

Gripes: There are a couple of bruises on the apple here, none of which are too serious, depending on how important these omissions are.

1. PC must be powered on.  Since calls are routed through your PC, it only works when the PC is on (and not in low-power mode)  This means that power saving features of your computer will have to be adjusted for it to work consistently, and it will use more power.
2. Voicemail (VM) and settings are not optional.  VM picks up after 4 rings, then goes to VM.  Would you like it to be 5 or 6 rings?  Sorry, this feature is not available at this time.  Wish you could use an answering machine?  You need to set your phone to pick up before 4 rings, in order to outsmart the MJ VM system.
3. Customer service/tech support: A very shoestring operation here; you will probably wait on hold longer than you should, but they do answer your questions.  Note this is chat only (no email, telephone support).  Kind of ironic that a phone company does not have a phone line.  I suggested they should get a MJ for their own use. (maybe they were missing too many calls):)
4. Missed calls/ calls going to VM.  Not a consistent problem, but if you were using this as your only line it could become frustrating.

Overall the experience has been mostly popular, but my friend may have decided to use a different service (or keep his land line) if he knew about gripe #2 & 4 above.

Competing services include Vonage, other VOIP systems like Skype, and even chat/messaging programs which allow text & voice chat.  While I am not quite sold on this platform, at this price point it's pretty compelling (especially if you intend to use it for outgoing calls, and have your PC on most of the time).

Very happy with my new Tower

So I finally got around to building up my system with this new tower, as Antec 600 series.  I like  the look of it, and with the included fans (a 140mm fan up top, and a 120mm fan in the rear) it manages to be nearly silent (as well as running much cooler).

Here I am putting the hard drive in, still have to install the CPU cooler and video card.

Many small connections need to be made in order for the power, reset buttons and indicator lights to work properly.  I am routing these so they will less visible through the side window...

This fan has an open design, but you need to be especially careful to keep wires, etc. out of the fan's path.  A few zip ties will do the trick.

Ahh, the finished product.  With the extra cooling help, this one runs quiet and cool, with temps (even on hot days) in the high 30-low 40's C.  An extra fan bay on the window gives optional direct cooling for the video card.

My new tower

Sometimes my desktop computer (the one I use for my business, but also for gaming) was overheating, and would randomly restart without any warning.  I should preface this by saying that I loved my old case, a Lian Li Black anodized aluminum case.  It had nice lines and was very sleek looking.  But the orientation of the power supply was vertical (photos pending) and was directly adjacent from the CPU fan.  A recent video card upgrade was the last straw.  It provided the extra heat + demand for power that pushed everything over the edge.
A quick temp reading with my laser thermometer showed a temp of 59 degree Celsius on the video card (GPU) and nearly the same reading on the power supply and CPU/mainboard.  While this is not too hot (relatively speaking), it contributes to the larger problem of heat being trapped in the case with not enough exhaust to pull out the hot air.
So my challenge was to find a way to increase airflow inside the computer to prevent it from overheating.  Since I already had the front fan bay (80mm-medium) and the top exhaust fan (80mm also) being used, the only unused fan ports were small 20mm fan ports on the rear of the case.  This would not provide much additional cooling, and a fan this small would have to spin very fast (and loud) in order to provide any measurable benefit.

In the end I decided to replace my case.  I have purchased an Antec six hundred case. I will be posting again as I assemble the computer again after I get it.  I bought mine from newegg.com and there was even a sale on it!

directions for replacing an LCD panel (generic, not for a specific model)

To replace the LCD is fairly straightforward; you start by turning the PC off, and then remove the rubber feet on the LCD's trim piece.  Also look for small stickers which may also have Phillips head screws beneath them.  A small (size 1, 0, or 00) Phillips screwdriver is needed to remove the screws.  Then gently pry the LCD trim piece from the back cover.  A small, thin standard screwdriver works well for this job.  Gently push the screwdriver into the seam along the edge, prying gently.  It will pop when they come loose, but be careful not to break the small clips on the trim piece.  Once you have a couple of clips separated, then you can remove the remainder by hand; be gentle with it, the tiny clips are easy to break if you are rough with it.

Once the Trim piece is removed, loosen the screws on the hinges, and then remove the tiny Phillips screws on the sides of the hinges. (You will need the smallest screwdriver for this part)  Gently unplug the ribbon cable (the video cable) on the back of the LCD panel, and from the inverter as well.  You can then remove the bad LCD panel.

Be very cautious in handling the new LCD panel.  They are sensitive to ESD (electro static discharge) as well as having a sensitive strip across the rear backside of the panel.  Avoid touching this area, and handle gently by the edges.  Leave the protective film on the screen’s surface during installation. (If applicable)  You can remove tape just before reattaching the LCD trim to minimize potential damage to your new screen.

Install the new LCD screen by connecting the video cable and inverter cable, then reattach the LCD trim, remove the protective film (if applicable), then install screws and feet in reverse order.  You should then be able to power on your laptop.

Win 7 installation

Next, I installed Windows 7 on this laptop.  I purchased a copy through the MS Ultimate Steal, which is a great deal for college students (yes, I am a college student).  There is a verification process, but the savings were well worth it, and you can buy Windows 7 Pro + Office Pro for a fraction of what the same will cost you at retail.  Google "MS ultimate steal" for more info. (You need a pretty fast internet connection for this, since you download the software after you complete purchase).  I passed on the backup software and saved an extra $14+tax.  (I burned the installation file to a DVD, so I do have a backup copy).
I was pleasantly surprised to find that Windows installed the sound and network driver software for this unit, leaving me only a few minor things to install.  In this case, I ended up using the Windows Vista webcam software since there was not one available for Win 7. So far it works fine; I am using a 32-bit version of Win 7, so there is less difference in the software.  The 64-bit version would probably not work on my 32 bit version of windows, so I count myself luck to find the right one.
Once I was done with this, naturally there were a bunch of updates for it to be done.  Installing Office 2007 Pro created a bunch more updates, so I spent the rest of the day updating this machine.

New laptop for my wife

I am hoping to share my knowledge of computers and helping others to help others avoid some of these pitfalls.  Just so that you can know a little about me, I am a computer gamer-turned computer technician-turned small business owner.

My most recent project was refurbishing an HP laptop for my wife.  This was a dv6 series laptop, and it had a bad LCD panel, which had been damaged, and needed replacement.  As luck would have it, I had a different HP (this one a dv6000) that had a nearly identical screen.  A quick check revealed that the LCD panel I had was a perfect match for my wife's PC, and all I had to do was to also transfer the LCD inverter along with the LCD panel.  Everything went smoothly and the laptop worked really well, but I decided to upgrade it to Windows 7.

After running the Win 7 upgrade adviser, and receiving "no problems" from it, I decided to proceed.